From Texas Instruments Wiki

Jump to: navigation, search

Translate this page to

Msp430lamp

MSP430lamp is an alarm clock with exciting additional features
It wants to be a valuable product everybody needs every single day
It will successfully replace all alarm clocks known so far

MSP430lamp

Authors

Dennis Gnad
Patrick Forster

Features (some still to be implemented)

General

Overall we want to create a color changeable remote-controllable lamp, which is supposed to be used for a bunch of applications - all controlled by the Chronos. For example as a "Wake-Up Light" or a "temperature sensitive" light. Having a nice end-user friendly overall design was also important for us. For example we have 7 segment LEDs shining through veneer wood, being invisible when turned off.

Wake-Up Light

We want to merge the idea of having a wake-up light with the Chronos being an all around tool to control things wireless. The idea is simple - when you set an alarm on your Chronos watch, the lamp will synchronize with the alarm of the Chronos. Then some minutes before the set-up alarm, the light will begin to become brighter and brighter, until the audible alarm of the Chronos will set off - when you are hopefully already awake by the brightness of the lamp! (Technical detail: Just in case the light is not in reach of the Chronos when the alarm is set up, it is supposed to also send another synchronize package just before the visible alarm will start.)

Another useful option you have, is controlling your bedside lamp with your watch. So you won't have to tumble over things in your room, or run back and forth to the rooms main light switch, before you go to bed!

Temperature dependent ambient light control

The MSP430lamp will implement a demonstration of temperature dependent ambient light control.

It adjusts the colour temperature of the lightsource depending on the room temperature, or depending on the body temperature of the person(s) wearing a Chronos watch in the same room.

Studies show, felt temperature depends on the colour temperature of the wall paint which surrounds the person. Similar, it depends on the colour temperature of the light sources in a room. Felt temperature is lower with cooler lighting, and vice versa.

In this way, temperature dependent lighting always chooses the right colour temperature for maximum comfort. At the same time it helps you to save energy by raising felt temperature in winter, and lowering in summer, which results in less energy spent for heating and air conditioning.

Low Cost

Since our product is completely custom engineered, without using much pre-made parts, it is either easy and affordable for everyone to reproduce, or able to be produced in larger quantities for an estimated cost of less than 35 EUR.

Fully customizable

You can customize the features of MSP430lamp by reprogramming the integrated MSP430F5435A microcontroller.

All you need is to plug in the usb programmer which comes with your Chronos watch into the pin-header of the Controller-Board of MSP430lamp, and you get a fully featured programming-/debugging interface.

In the end you could drill a hole in the bottom of the lamp housing, so it will be reprogrammable in a fully assembled state.

Controller-PCB, bottom-side, with Debug-Connector for MSP-eZ430U

Controller-PCB, top-side, MSP430F5435A and CC1101 RF-Chip

We have chosen an MSP430F5435A, because it is a powerful starting point for your very own custom application!

Pictures & Videos

"Visual Prototype" - see the 7-Segment LEDs shining through the veneer wood!

Inside of MSP430Lamp

MSP430Lamp turned off

Usage Instructions

Technical Background

Color models

Using the HSV or HSL color model makes it possible to change the colour of a RGB LED-Lamp in a more natural way, keeping contrast and saturation at a constant level when only changing the color value. H, S and V represent Hue(representing a color tint), Saturation and a greylevel-Brightness.

For a constant bright light, you will keep S and V at constant values while rotation the H value in a circle between 0 and 360 degrees.

If you want to be able to make saturation decrease and get the most possible brightness with an increasing "V"(=Value) you would then rather use the HSL colourspace, which is an enhanced HSV colorspace that starts to reduce saturation and raising other colors when over 1/2 of the maximal "L"-Value is reached.

HSL and HSV Colour Space

So in the end the HSV or HSL model can be used for a more natural setting of the wanted color, and implementing smooth color changes.

Hardware Design

Mechanical Dimensions

Exact definitions for the 3 PCBs and the housing:

File:Msp430lamp mechanical dimensions.pdf

PCB Schematics and Layout

Schematics and Board Layouts - Eagle Design Files: File:Msp430lamp.zip

Schematics and Board Layouts in PDF Format: File:Msp430lamp schematic and board.pdf

BOM

Controller/Radio PCB:

Part	Device	Package	Name	Value	Price (EUR)
C1	C-EUC0805	C0805	Capacitor	0.47uF	0.15
C2	C-EUC1206	C1206	Cap	100nF	0.05
C3	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
C4	C-EUC1206	C1206	Cap	100nF	0.05
C13	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	100n	0.05
C14	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	220p	0.05
C15	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	3.9p	0.05
C16	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	3.9p	0.05
C17	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	220p	0.05
C18	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	8.2p	0.05
C19	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	5.6p	0.05
C20	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	220p	0.05
C21	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	33p	0.05
C22	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	33p	0.05
CONTROL	F54XX[A]---PN80	PN80	MSP430F5435A	5435A	3.90
D1	ZENER-DIODESOD80C	SOD80C	Zener-Diode	3.3V	0.035
EZ430	PINHEAD_PINHD-1X10S	PINHEAD_1X10S	PinHeader	1x10	0.10
IC4	CC1100	QFN50P400X400X90-21N	CC1101	CC1101	1.65
J1	JACK-PLUG0	SPC4077	Power-Jack	2.5mm	0.18
JP1	PINHD-1X4	1X04	PinHeader	1x4	0.10
JP2	PINHD-1X1	1X01	PinHeader	1x1	0.01
JP3	PINHD-1X2	1X02	PinHeader	1x2	0.10
JP4	PINHD-1X2/90	1X02/90	PinHeader	1x2	0.10
JP5	PINHD-1X4/90	1X04/90	PinHeader	1x4	0.10
JP6	PINHD-1X1	1X01	PinHeader	1x1	0.01
JP7	PINHD-1X1	1X01	PinHeader	1x1	0.01
JP8	PINHD-1X1	1X01	PinHeader	1x1	0.01
JP9	PINHD-1X1	1X01	PinHeader	1x1	0.01
JP10	PINHD-1X1	1X01	PinHeader	1x1	0.01
L4	L-EUL2012C	L2012C	Inductor	27nH	0.16
L5	L-EUL2012C	L2012C	Inductor	27nH	0.16
L6	L-EUL2012C	L2012C	Inductor	27nH	0.16
L7	L-EUL2012C	L2012C	Inductor	27nH	0.16
Q1	CRYSTALTC26V	TC26V	Crystal	32768Hz	0.15
Q2	CRYSTALHC49S	HC49/S	Crystal	27MHz	0.18
R1	R-EU_R0805	R0805	Resistor	330	0.10
R9	R-EU_M1206	M1206	Resistor	0	0.10
R11	R-EU_V234/12	V234/12	Resistor	56k	0.10

Sum					8.465

LED PCB:

Part	Device	Package	Name	Value	Price (EUR)
BLUE_11LM	SEOULSMD	SEOUL	Seoul Semiconductor LED	RGB	4.95
C4	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	22u	0.07
C5	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
C6	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
C7	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	22u	0.07
C8	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
C9	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
C10	C-EUC0805	C0805	Cap	22u	0.07
C11	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
C12	C-EUC0603	C0603	Cap	4.7u	0.12
D2	DIODE-SOD80C	SOD80C	Diode	1N4148	0.015
D3	DIODE-SOD80C	SOD80C	Diode	1N4148	0.015
D4	DIODE-SOD80C	SOD80C	Diode	1N4148	0.015
GREEN_48LM	SEOULSMD	SEOUL	Seoul Semiconductor LED	RGB	5.95
IC1	TPS77001	SOT23-DBV	TPS62260	600mA	1.00
IC2	TPS77001	SOT23-DBV	TPS62260	600mA	1.00
IC3	TPS77001	SOT23-DBV	TPS62260	600mA	1.00
JP1	PINHD-1X2	1X02	PinHeader	1x2	0.05
JP2	PINHD-1X4	1X04	PinHeader	1x4	0.05
L1	L-EUL1210	L1210	Inductor	2.2uH	0.26
L2	L-EUL1210	L1210	Inductor	2.2uH	0.26
L3	L-EUL1210	L1210	Inductor	2.2uH	0.26
R2	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R3	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R4	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	1.8	0.10
R5	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R6	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R7	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	1.8	0.10
R8	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R9	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R10	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	1.8	0.10
RED_30LM	SEOULSMD	SEOUL	Seoul Semiconductor LED	RGB	3.95

Sum					20.605

7-Segment Board:

Part	Device	Package	Name	Value	Price (EUR)
JP1	PINHD-1X2	1X02	PinHeader	1x2	0.05
JP2	PINHD-1X4	1X04	PinHeader	1x4	0.05
LED1	7-SEG_SA56-11	SA56-11	SA56-11 GWA	SA56-11	0.43
LED2	7-SEG_SA56-11	SA56-11	SA56-11 GWA	SA56-11	0.43
LED3	7-SEG_SA56-11	SA56-11	SA56-11 GWA	SA56-11	0.43
LED4	7-SEG_SA56-11	SA56-11	SA56-11 GWA	SA56-11	0.43
R1	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	1.8+-	0.10
R2	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R3	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R4	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R5	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	10k	0.10
R6	R-EU_R1206	R1206	Resistor	1.8+-	0.10
TLC592X1	TLC5925	SSOP24	TLC5925	45mA	0.50
TLC592X2	TLC5925	SSOP24	TLC5925	45mA	0.50

Sum					3.42

Still TODO

Hardware

The CC1101 <-> F5435A communication on the bottom PCB has still to be completely tested and soldered.

Source Code

So far only test source code was created. The full application still has to be programmed - but we already did investigations about, for example colorspaces, like mentioned above in "technical background".

Appendix: How-to etch PCB's at home

We needed a custom PCB to be able to do our own board design, but it wasn't in the budget of non-ti parts of < 50EUR - so we needed to learn how to etch PCBs at home by ourselves!

We tried the well-known "direct-toner" method, ironing the toner of a laser-printer on a raw copper coated PCB (without photo-resist!) - with success!

This is a good method for doing custom prototype PCBs at home, as it is cheap and effective (QFP is quite possible if you have the skills to solder it).

Here is how we do it:

Prerequisites

You can either get an etching kit, which has all the required materials (even raw PCBs) for 9,00 EUR - or you can get the materials separately:

Sodium persulfate (Na2SO8) ~100g dissolved in ~450ml water - this can even be reused later for a lot of further etchings :-)
Raw copper board - we got raw material to be cut by ourselves later (1kg for 3,50 EUR from pollin.de)
Thin wire to contact through two-sided PCBs (~0,6mm)
(Cheap) Paper from any catalogue (e.g. reichelt) - they don't have to be white, the print on it does not influence the results

Sodium persulfate

Raw copper boards

Thin wire

Cheap catalogue paper

and some tools we already had:

Flat iron
Laser printer
Cotton cloth
Miniature drill with 0,6 0,8 and 1,0mm drills
Cutter OR saw OR miniature power drill with blade (to cut the copper boards)
Plastic container or small pan(from the etching kit) - sodium persulfate does not dissolve plastic
some sort of clamp(s) for drilling help
Plastic tweezers (also included in the etching kit) - or some other helper for moving the board in the etching solvent later

Flat iron	Miniature power drill	Miniature drills 0,6, 0,8 and 1,0 mm	Plastic pan from etching kit
Nail polish remover with pcb in the front	Plastic tweezers

Tools/materials that might make your life easier, but could be omitted:

Safety gloves and safety goggles (recommended)
Needles for easier aligning of two layers
Water resistent permanent marker
Flux SK10 "Kontakt Chemie Lötlack SK10" (this is corrosion protection resin and flux in one, to be sprayed on the etched PCBs)
Acetone / Nail Polish Remover based on Acetone (Easier removal of the toner from the etched PCBs - otherwise you would need to use sandpaper)
Sandpaper >400 grade to "polish" the PCBs before soldering or spraying corrosion protection on them

Getting the print layer on the raw copper board

First layer

Print the circuit with a high toner setting on cheap catalogue paper (it doesn't matter what is already on the catalogue paper, this won't get transfered to the board at all) - watch out to have it mirrored or not, depending on if it is the top or bottom layer
Saw a raw copper board to the required size
Use the flat iron to iron the printed circuit on the copper, approximately do this:
- Flat iron on lowest setting, and no steam!
- Use the cotton cloth between flat iron, paper and board
- First iron only for some seconds to get the paper aligned at the right position, then iron for around 3-4min continuously, wait a moment to let it cool down hand hot or lower, and again for around 2-3min
Remove the paper in water and see if it was successful, if not remove the toner with acetone and try again

Layout printed on catalogue paper and cut out

One possible way to align the layers: with holes

Second layer

Either just try to align it by looking at the edges, or:
- Use a drill to drill 2-3 holes
- align the other layer with needles or anything else to the holes
Now do the same ironing as above, but protecting the other side with another piece of cheap catalogue paper

After finishing both layers, you can correct any smaller errors on any of the sides with a water resistent marker.

Correcting the transfered print with a permanent marker

If all looks fine, you are good to go for the next step

Etching the PCB

After all the etching itself is one of the easiest steps:

Put up the plastic pan with the sodium persulfate and wait until it has dissolved in water - you can use distilled or tap water, but distilled water might be better - if the water is heated up to around 50°C it will also etch faster, but it is not needed

Put the board inside the pan and wait - if you have tweezers you could move it around now and then, which is also supposed to make it etch faster

After all visible copper is removed on both sides, remove it from the pan and put it into some container with tap water inside

Now just clean everything up. Keep the sodium sulfate by just putting it in a plastic bottle - but for safety, make visible that it is nothing to drink! If you want to dispose it, also watch out your countries restrictions where to dispose potential hazardous waste!

Board being etched in already used sodium (therefore the blue tint)

Postprocessing the PCB to make it ready for soldering

Now there are multiple possibilities to post-process the PCB. But you have to at least do these:

Drill all holes
Do either of:
1. either sandpaper away the toner from all or all relevant parts (you could also just sandpaper away parts that need to be soldered)
2. or use acetone/nail polish remover to remove the toner in a cleaner and faster way
Connect all vias by soldering thin wire through the via-holes

Optional things are::